Monday, 27 January 2020 The British Museum and the Hidden London Exhibit at the Transportation Museum. Today we went to the British Museum, or as it has become known in our house, the Museum of Colonial Plunder. It has some of the world’s premier collections of ancient Greek, Assyrian, Egyptian, and Pacific Islander artifacts. So it’s an incredible opportunity to see all of these ancient cultures in one place. But, as you can imagine, there are cultures around the world clamoring to have their historic, and often sacred, artifacts returned. To which the British government’s official response is “Well, no.” You can read more about it at britishmuseum.org.Continue reading ““We’re gonna rock down to Electric Avenue””
Saturday, 18 January 2020. We open a bank account. While this may not sound like something to record in a travel blog, sometimes the most mundane tasks turn out to be most interesting inter-cultural comparisons. We had not planned to open a bank account while here, but after investigating possibilities for exercising, we decided to join the local gym. The only way to do this was to have a British account from which a monthly debit could be taken. It took four trips to four different branches of HSBC, a special letter written from Michael’s employer, and a 2.5 hour visit with a bank representative to accomplish the task. Even then, had we not had our Irish passports so that we could do it as EU citizens, we could not have accomplished the task. EU regulations about money laundering are so much stricter that the US, and the security measures they take with electronic banking are impressive.Continue reading “Figuring Out Our New Home and First Adventures”
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OUR NEW HOME (15 South Gardens, Colliers Wood)Continue reading
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OUR NEW HOME (15 South Gardens, Colliers Wood)
10th January 2020 – Tour de EPL stadia. Isaiah created a tour of the city’s four English Premier League Football stadiums. Given that we hadn’t really yet grasped how big the city was, and how long it would take to do this, we accomplished two of the four –the brand new stadium where the Tottenham Hotspurs play and the Arsenal stadium about a half hour bus-ride away. These are both located on the Northeast side of the city in neighborhoods that are a fantastic mix of ethnicities – Caribbean of all sorts, Ghanaian, various middle-eastern countries, etc.
11th January 2020: The Changing of the Guard at Wellington Barracks. Okay, so that’s not how the song goes, is it? It is actually quite difficult to see the exchange of guards at Buckingham Palace without waiting a few hours on the statue of Victoria outside the gates. We opted to watch the more accessible warm-up, inspection, and departure of the relieving guards at Wellington Barracks. We had recently read Bill Bryson’s description of the event in which he described their hats as “fur-lined upside-down trash bins” so our level of reverence was low.”
13 January 2020 Plane spotting at Heathrow Airport. Isaiah was keen to see some more A380s landing, and we wanted to test how long it would take to get there via public transport so we could time our trips to pick up guests. It turns out it takes an hour and twenty minutes each way. Much of this is above ground through the western suburban sprawl of two-three story row houses. It has amazed me how many millions of houses of nearly the same model London has! We saw the Concorde sitting on the runway at Heathrow. You can tour it, but it never goes anywhere these days.
16th January 2020 Shakespeare at the Sam Wanamaker Theater. A modern interpretation of Richard III
The theater is a reconstruction of a Jacobean era theater taken from plans that were found, but never actually built until four years ago. The lighting is all done with candles, and a band sat in the balcony above the stage. It was very intimate, and we were in the last row of seats. Everyone behind us was standing. It was the best Shakespeare I have ever seen!
15th January 2020 The Docklands Museum. The docklands are the area of East London that was the receiving point for the spoils of the British Empire from all over the world. The museum is located in what used to be the largest warehouse in the world, over a quarter of a mile long. One end was bombed during WWII, as this part of the city was an obvious target for the Germans. One of the docents we spoke to said her childhood home was destroyed twice during the war. When the “containerization” of shipping took over in the 1980s, this part of the city fell into disuse. It is now unrecognizable as a former warehouse area, except for the numerous quays, each one named for it’s former company owner. It is now a center of high-end, high-rise apartments well connected to downtown via the Dockland Light Rail line.
The Docklands Museum and Docklands Light Railway at Canary Warf
A 1000 piece puzzle of the London Underground for those long dark evenings.
17th January 2020 London Tower and London Bridge. We took a brief visit to the London Bridge, but the day was cold and windy and the whole areas crowded with tourists. We took a pass on the castle and instead decided on a brief walk across the lower deck of the bridge. The view of the Thames is amazing and different from every bridge. We learned which buildings the locals affectionately call “the armadillo,” “the walkie-talkie,” and “the gherkin.” The Thames is tidal all the way inland to London. You can see in one of the photos that it is low tide.
19th January 2020 Greenwich, England. It was a beautiful sunny, day and we headed out to Greenwich to the observatory where the prime meridian runs. The observatory sits on one of the few hills in London, just to it’s southeast. There is a fantastic view of the city, as well as one of the historic pedestrian tunnels that travel under the Thames to allow workers to get back and forth from work. We walked through the one that leads to the dockland areas, 1200 meters long, and constructed in 1902.
The pedestrian tunnel, prime meridian, the Shepard’s 24 hour clock and old measurement standards from the Greenwich Observatory.
A view from the trains: council flats (public housing) with vegetable gardens, and house boats in the old shipping quays.
Music Lessons: from the Royal Guard’s Chapel to Supastorage. Both boys have a weekly music lesson – Samuel on the organ and Isaiah on the drumset. It is giving us glimpse into two very divergent London music scenes. The photos below are of the Royal Guard’s Chapel where Martin Ford, the music director, gives Samuel his lessons. It is the official chapel for the Queen’s Royal Guard. All but the apse was destroyed by a bomb during a Sunday service in 144, killing everyone attending church that morning. It was reconstructed in a very modernistic style, and houses the retired standards (flags) of the guarding regiments. The organ is not grand, but Martin is an excellent teacher. Isaiah’s lessons are a bit closer to home, given by a young musician named Nick Lowineski. He too is chatty and fun, but because it is so expensive to rent space where two drum sets could be appropriately played for hours a day, he has converted a self-storage unit into a mini-studio. So Isaiah’s lessons are in the Supastorage Unit 303 in an industrial park about a fifteen minute walk from our house in South Wimbledon.
20th January 2020 – Northwest London on the Overground. Kristen, Samuel and Isaiah took a train trip to Wembley Center Station, home of the National Team soccer stadium, but also the outer limits of Kristen’s Oyster card (Zone 4 of 9) When we got off to take a look around, we discovered that it was an excellent place to watch the high-speed trains heading north. We saw 7 trains in about 15 minutes! The Overground (orange circle) is an extensive network of trains that extend the reach of the Underground (red circle)system. The area south of the Thames River where we live is quite under served by the original Underground system. There is also a system of trams that networks with the Underground and Overground systems. All are accessed by the same Oyster Card, and you pay by the zone. Michael and I have cards that allow us travel anywhere within zones 1-4. The boys’ youth cards allow them to go to zone 6. The boys don’t pay more than 1.5 pounds per day if they travel off-peak. This means that we are sometimes hanging around in central London until 7:00pm to avoid the evening peak hours. But we have made some marvelous discoveries during these waits. The London Eye at night is quite beautiful, as are all of the bridges. Each one has it’s own unique illumination system.
“When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life; for there is in London all that life can afford.”— Samuel Johnson.
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